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| ANDY HALL |
The volcanic islands, quiet beaches, clear rivers and succulent rainforests of Southwest are worth the effort to get out there. We paddled our kayak into a small cove that ended at a half-moon curve of rock-and-sand beach, but my husband and I knew there was more just out of sight. The beach formed a sort of breakwater from what was on the other side, and the crashing surf gave us a hint that it would not be as serene as what we had just paddled through.
During our five-day camping trip at Shuyak Island State Park, we had paddled flat-calm water, watching birds flit along the shore and following sea otters that looked at us curiously. But this spot, just on the other side of the beach surely would not be the same.
We got out of our kayaks and climbed up the beach and over the rise to see the wide-open water of Shelikof Strait- a cauldron of big water that separates the park from the rest of Southwest Alaska. We suddenly felt incredibly small, like insignificant bugs in a world that didn't end.
We sat there taking in the view, awed at the beauty and intimidated by the power of the ocean. Like everything else in Southwest Alaska, it seemed the epitome of wild.
Southeast Alaska is often overlooked by travelers, in part because what it offers - top-notch fishing, backpacking and boating opportunities - is also available in more accessible areas of the state. Southwest Alaska is comprised of the Aleutian Islands, which stretch from the end of the Alaska Peninsula almost to Japan; the Pribilof Islands, which include St. George and St. Paul islands;the Bristol Bay area; Bethel, the largest "city" in the region; the Kodiak Archipeligo; and the Iliamna-Lake Clark region.
Geographically this is a diverse place, with active volcanoes, wild rivers?the Yukon and Kuskokwim are two of the better known?and plenty of , wild land in the form of national parks and preserves. Among Native residents in this region are the Yupik Eskimos on the western mainland, the Alutiiq on Kodiak; and the Aleuts on the Aleutian and Pribilof islands.
Kodiak Island is a great startingpoint for many a Southwest adventure; although there is so much to do there you might just never leave. To truly appreciate the wildness of the archipelago?of which Shuyak Island is the farthest north?consider this: There are approximately 3,000 Kodiak brown bears living on Kodiak Island?s 3,588 square miles and about 14,000 people.
That is about 1 bear for every 4.5 humans.
One of the biggest attractions that lure visitors here is the chance of seeing one of the big bruins from a safe distance. And they are big. A mature boar can reach up to 1,500 pounds and be five feet tall at the shoulders. Standing up, it would reach higher than an average ceiling. The Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1941 to protect bear habitat, and with the healthy population, it is apparent that the refuge has served its purpose well.
With so many bears in such a limited amount of space, you would think they'd often be wandering the streets of downtown Kodiak. While that probably has happened a time or two, the fact is there is still enough wilderness on Kodiak Island that its bears stay well away from humans, separated from the road system by many miles of mountains and brush. To see these elusive creatures, it is best to hire a guide and fly in or hike to some of their stomping grounds.
Flying options are numerous, and the Kodiak Island Convention and Visitors Bureau (800-789-4782 or 907-486-4782) is just one easy call away for information in Kodiak. They offer maps, directions, traveler advice, business referrals, help with lodging, fishing and bear viewing, shopping and recreational activities of all kinds. The service is friendly and they also offer unique Kodiak souvenirs. Call or stop in next time you?re in town.
Kodiak Chamber of Commerce (907-486-5557) hosts the best five days in May on Kodiak Island: The Kodiak Crab Festival. The festival features fabulous food, a parade, arts shows, an amusement park, races and more. Join in the festivities in 2010 for its 52nd anniversary.
Before your bear-viewing adventure, though, check out Kodiak central, which has a quaint small-town feel. It is clearly a fishermen's town, with canneries, a few restaurants and the obligatory bar here and there. The smell of saltwater permeates the air and fishing vessels motor in and out of St. Paul and St. Herman harbors throughout the day, hungry seagulls following in their wakes.
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| ANDY HALL |
Kodiak is Alaska's oldest continually inhabited European settlement. This long history can be explored at The Baranov Museum (907-486-5920, 101 Marine Way, Kodiak AK 99615), where visitors can explore the rich history of coastal Southwest Alaska. Constructed as a fur warehouse by the Russian-American Co.in 1808, the Baranov Museum is the oldest building in Alaska and the earliest documented log building on the west coast of the United States. It also features more than 45 albums of historic photographs of southwest Alaska from the 1880s to the 1960sThe gift shop has unique Russian gifts, Lamonosov porcelain, jewelry and Alaskana books.
The Alutiiq Native peoples were here first, first settling here some 7,500 years ago. Their history can be explored at The Alutiiq Museum (907-486-7004, 215 Mission Road, Suite 101, Kodiak, AK 99615). The museum preserves and shares the traditions of Kodiak Island?s first settlers. The Alutiiq Museum promotes cultural pride, and others are invited to share in the celebration of Native heritage. See ancient artifacts, discover history and learn how Alutiiq traditions continue today.
In town, there are several places worth a stop. Among them is Kodi ak Island Brewing Company, (907-486-2537) which features fresh, local, unfiltered beer with organic base malts. The gift shop has great gifts and souvenirs and the brewery also conducts tours and tastings. Grab some beer to go in a variety of containers to suit your adventures. More info and pictures are on the Internet.
For souvenirs that will last behind your lunchtime beverage, check out the longtime favorite, Ardinger's Fine Furnishings and Gifts, (907-486-5554) founded in 1963 by Ben and Hazel Ardinger. Ardinger's strives to provide the people of Kodiak with top-quality home furnishings with great lines such as Flexsteel, Barcalounger, Stanton, Tempur-pedic, Simmons and Englander. Ardinger?s prides itself on their service, offering free delivery and haul away as well as friendly customer service while offering quality furniture and mattresses at Lower-48 pricing
If the call of the bear pulls you away from town, head to the wilderness. The Kodiak archipelago has some of the finest wilderness lodges in the state, and these places offer visitors a chance to spend long hours in bear country (not to mention, the fishing is out of this world.) The Kodiak Island Convention and Visitors Bureau lists 26 such lodges in an around Kodiak.
Kodiak Raspberry Island Remote Lodge (701-526-1677) is a peaceful, modern, remote lodge miles away from the nearest community. Enjoy second-generation hosts and a variety of fully guided and outfitted activities, including fresh and saltwater fishing, sea kayaking, hiking and fly-out bear viewing.
Afognak Wilderness Lodge (866-978-4417 or 360-799-3252) is located in the heart of a coastal state park with a wide variety and abundance of land and marine wildlife plus outstanding fresh and saltwater fishing. It has been one of Alaska?s favorite true-wilderness lodges since 1974. The elegant log guest cabins have indoor plumbing and electricity.
Katmai Wilderness Lodge (800-488-8767 or 907-486-8767) is a nature enthusiast?s paradise and a true Alaska adventure. The lodge features bear and wildlife viewing, photography and saltwater fishing. Located in isolated Kukak Bay in Katmai National Park, the excellent accommodations offer a true Alaska setting with a professional staff.
Olds River Inn (907-486-6040) offers new, luxurious cabin rentals with all the comforts of home within walking distance to fresh and saltwater fishing, hunting, hiking, bird viewing and picturesque wildflowers. The remote location is perfect for the outdoor enthusiast, but is still connected to the road system for convenience. A new restaurant and lounge are coming for the summer of 2010.
Flying is one of the best ways to easily?and safely?access all of Southwest Alaska?s giant bears in their natural habitat.
Aniak Air Guides (907-675-4540) is an option for those traveling out of the village of Aniak, on the banks of the Kuskokwim River. Home to roughly 500 year-round residents, Aniak?s population consists of mostly Yupik Eskimos and Tanaina Athabascans. It is an area in which many residents still carry on the subsistence lifestyle of
their ancestors. Many families travel to fish camps each summer, and visitors to the region at this time of year can learn a lot about the Native way of life. This area has some great backpacking and rafting destinations, as well as fishing galore, and Aniak Air Guides can get you there.
Branch River Air Service (907-248-3539), on the banks of the Naknek River in King Salmon, is the company to get you where you are going. Branch River Air Service has five floatplanes available for fly-out fishing, river rafting, flight seeing and bear viewing. Rafts are available for rent, too. The area around King Salmon is rich in fish and wildlife. Fly out to remote areas for the fishing or camping adventure of a lifetime.
St. Paul Island Tours (877-424-5637 or 907-278-2312, P.O. Box 88, St. Paul Island, AK 99660) offers one-of-a kind visits to this Pribilof Island, home of the Aleut Unangan people, and a place where traditions are alive. There are 278 species of birds on this tiny island in the middle of the Bering Sea. The ocean flourishes with life, including one of the most common sea mammals in the region, the northern fur seal. Along the Aleutian Chain, visitors can see an abundance of wildlife species.
Ounalashka Corporation (907-581-1276, 400 Salmon Way, Unalaska, AK 99685) is the local Native corporation in Unalaska, and owns much of the surrounding land. It is proud of the area and its diverse options for sport-fishermen, birders, hikers, photographers, kayakers, and history buffs. Travelers can obtain recreational permits for this land from the corporation.
Ounalashka Corporation Visitors Center, also at 400 Salmon Way (907-581-1276) is the place to learn more about the modern history of the Aleutian Islands. During World War II, Native residents of the Aleutian Islands were forced to leave. Interned in Southeast Alaska amid overcrowded and unsanitary conditions, their numbers were reduced by 10 percent. Ounalashka Corporation and the National Park Service tell the story through the Aleutian World War II National Historic Area and Visitors Center
If the bears of Kodiak, the northern fur seals of the Pribilofs and the wealth of birds in the Aleutians are not enough to make you stand in awe, maybe the stunning scenery will do it. Amid all this flora and fauna are mountains and oceans, and they really do seem to go on forever. It's a true adventure, and definitely not like any cruise-ship or planned tour. Come on out, see what Southwest Alaska can show you.