Preserving the Pack

Wolves of the Alexander Archipelago [by Emily Mount] CRUNCH, CRUNCH, SPLASH, CRUNCH!” I hear them before I see them as I paddle my kayak around a rocky point in Glacier Bay National Park: 12 wolves feasting on a bed of mussels at low tide. They smack their lips, tearing bivalves from the rocks, crushing them in a few snaps, and swallowing them shell and all.

Monsters from the Deep

Exploring the appeal of Alaska’s strangest gamefish [by E. Donnall Thomas Jr.] You don’t need to travel far across Sitka Sound before you begin to fall under the spell of true maritime wilderness—Baranof Island’s convoluted outer shoreline unspools a long way from civilization. Many places...

A New Season

Stillpoint Lodge opens to adventure [by Kaylene Johnson-Sullivan] As the helicopter pilot angles the chopper for a closer look at a glacial crevasse, I think how much Stillpoint Lodge has changed since it opened in 2003. Once a contemplative-retreat center, Stillpoint recently transitioned to a...


Home of the Alaska State Fair and freakish veggies [By Susan Sommer] The traffic light pulsing like a heartbeat at the intersection of Alaska Street and Evergreen Avenue gives Palmer a definite small-town feel. And though nestled in Alaska’s fastestgrowing borough, the town retains its charm and...

Among the Bears

Exploring Katmai’s wild coast [by Emily Mount] Our floatplane skimmed low over a grassy headland. I pressed my nose against the window to see a family of brown bears ambling along a game trail below.