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Bears Just Wanna Have Fun

It had to be there, a bright red, six-gallon plastic can full of gas. I was depending on every drop. I’d marked the spot for my cache on my way upstream two days before: a high bank, just below a distinctive slough. Had it been stolen way out here?
Denali park

Time to Get Lost – A Former Ranger’s Guide to the Secrets of Denali

For a couple of years in the late 1990s, I worked as a backcountry ranger in Denali National Park. The job was outrageous, in a good way. I and a handful of other college kids were required to work an allotted number of 12-hour shifts at the backcountry permit desk, and then, with the blessing of...
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The Grayling Factory – Signs and Wonders in the Arctic

Crouching, I cast into the sort of clear, eddying pool in deep, mountain-edged wilderness that might bend any devout angler’s knee. My marabou jig swept off a gravel ledge and tumbled along the bottom, past a snag, and downstream, its movement telegraphed through my light rod and thin line.

Transparent Beauty- Cool Works of Art from Champion Carvers

Artists of a unique medium converge in Fairbanks, Alaska every March to create masterpiece sculptures made from giant blocks of ice. Fairbanks’ ice, dubbed the Arctic Diamond, is renowned for its purity, which lures craftsmen from all parts of the globe to attend the World Ice Art...

Breaking Trail – Another Day in the Arctic

It was a hard day for going anywhere, let alone up the Redstone Valley and over Iviisaq Pass. My Eskimo buddy Clarence Wood and I plowed through loose, rolling drifts from the previous day’s blizzard, our snowmachines dragging basket sleds loaded with gas, gear and grub, bound for a week in the...

Still Wild – the Roadside View of Denali

You could travel the wildest reaches of Alaska for a lifetime and not witness a scene like this—a pack of wolves feeding on a caribou kill on the edge of a rushing river. From the crest of a tundra bluff, I watched the gray alpha male tug at a hindquarter as others waited their turns. Then a...

Talkeetna Roadhouse – A Place To Gather

Photos by Andrea D’Agosto I sat at the Talkeetna Roadhouse with three other women climbers after an attempted ascent of Denali. After two weeks of freeze-dried meals, our mouths watered in anticipation of home-cooked fare, and the aroma of freshly baked bread warmed the room. We replayed our...